The complete guide to Jurmala, Latvia

Jūrmala. Ask any Latvian about summer and this is the word you'll hear. It's where families from Riga have escaped the city for nearly two hundred years: a long, thin town of pine forest, sand dunes and wooden villas squeezed between the Gulf of Riga and the Lielupe River.

I grew up on the other side of Latvia's coast in Liepāja (you can read my complete guide to Liepāja here). So I'm a little biased when I say the Latvian seaside is one of the most underrated parts of Europe. Jūrmala is the easiest place to experience it. It's close enough to Riga for a day trip, but with enough beaches, forests, spas and history to fill a long weekend. This Tom Solo Travels guide covers everything I'd tell a friend before they go: how to get there, how to get around, where to stay, where to eat, and how to avoid the mistakes first-time visitors make.

What is Jūrmala?

Jūrmala (literally "seaside" in Latvian) is a resort town of around 50,000 people. It stretches along a narrow strip of land between the Gulf of Riga and the Lielupe River. It isn't one compact town. Jūrmala is a chain of former fishing villages and resort settlements, joined into a single city and linked by one railway line with 14 stops between Priedaine and Ķemeri.

Its history as a resort goes back to the 18th century. The first bathers arrived in Kaugurciems in the 1730s. Wealthy Riga families then started building summer houses in Dubulti in the early 1800s, and the official Ķemeri spa was founded in 1838 around its sulphur springs and healing mud. When the Riga-Tukums railway opened in 1877, Jūrmala boomed. Sanatoriums, concert halls and hundreds of ornate wooden villas followed.

In the Soviet era, Jūrmala became one of the most famous holiday destinations in the USSR, known for its sanatoriums and summer concerts. Today it's a mix of all those layers. You'll see restored Art Nouveau villas next to Soviet-era hotels, quiet forest paths a few minutes from busy beach bars, and a national park full of bogs and lakes at its western end.

How to get to Jūrmala

The easiest way to get to Jūrmala is by train from Riga Central Station. It's cheap, frequent and drops you within walking distance of the beach. Here are all your options.

By train (best option): Trains run by Vivi leave Riga Central Station (Rīgas pasažieru stacija) towards Tukums, Ķemeri or Sloka two or three times an hour. The ride to Majori takes about 30 minutes and costs around €1.50 (£1.30). Buy your ticket at the station ticket hall, online, or in the Vivi app. You can also buy from the conductor on board, but it costs slightly more. There's no station called "Jūrmala", so you'll need to choose your stop (see neighbourhoods below). For most first-time visitors, that's Majori.

By minibus or bus: Minibuses leave from Riga International Bus Station (Prāgas iela 1), right next to the Central Market, on routes towards Jaunķemeri and Sloka. The trip to Majori takes around 30-45 minutes and costs a couple of euros. It's a good backup if you've just missed a train, or if you're staying near a bus stop rather than a station.

By car: Jūrmala is about 20-25 km from central Riga via the A10/E22, which takes 20-40 minutes depending on traffic. Summer weekends can be very busy. You'll need to pay the €5 daily entry fee (see below), but municipal parking in Jūrmala is free, including the Majori car park at Lienes iela 5.

From Riga Airport: Jūrmala is only about a 15-20 minute drive from Riga International Airport, so a taxi or Bolt is the quickest option. On public transport, take bus 22 into Riga and change to the train at Central Station. It takes longer, but it costs just a few euros.

By bike: The EuroVelo 10 cycle route runs about 20 km from Vanšu Bridge in Riga to Jūrmala, mostly alongside the railway. It takes roughly an hour at an easy pace. If you get tired, you can take your bike back on the train with an extra baggage ticket.

By river boat (summer only): In summer, river boats such as the "Elizabete" sail from the Daugava embankment in Riga to Jūrmala along the Daugava, Buļļupe and Lielupe rivers. The trip takes around 2.5 hours each way and costs much more than the train. It's a lovely slow way to arrive if you have the time. Book ahead in peak season.

How much is the Jūrmala entry fee?

Since 1 January 2026, every car, motorbike and other motor vehicle entering Jūrmala must have an entry pass costing €5 per day. It went up from €3 in 2025. Signs reading "Maksas zona" / "Paid Zone" mark the boundary, and cameras at the entry points read number plates.

• Who pays: drivers of cars, motorcycles, buses and larger scooters. Train, bus, bike and foot passengers pay nothing.
• Who's exempt: electric vehicles, vehicles registered to drivers with disabilities, and residents or property owners in Jūrmala.
• How to pay: online at visitjurmala.lv, through the Mobilly, EuroPark or Citadele apps, at pass machines in Jūrmala (card only from 2026), or at the Tourist Information Centre at Lienes iela 5.
• When to pay: any time on the day you enter, up to 23:59. You can enter and leave as many times as you like that day.
• Longer stays: 7-day passes cost €20 and 30-day passes €60, so a week-long stay costs much less than paying daily.

If you're renting a car, ask the rental company whether they handle the pass. If they don't, buy it yourself so you don't end up with a fine passed on with an admin fee.

How to get around Jūrmala

Jūrmala is long and thin, around 30 km end to end, so how you get around depends on how much of it you want to see.

On foot: The best way to explore Majori, Dzintari and Dubulti is simply to walk. The beach runs the whole length of the town, and walking between Majori and Dzintari along the sand takes around 20-30 minutes. Jomas iela, the main pedestrian street, is just over a kilometre long.

By train: The same train line from Riga links all of Jūrmala's neighbourhoods. A short hop between stations costs very little and is the easiest way to reach places further out, like Ķemeri or Lielupe.

By bicycle: Jūrmala is flat and full of cycle paths, and you'll find bike rentals in Majori and near the main beaches in summer. Cycling is the best way to combine beach, forest and villas in one day.

By bus and minibus: Local buses connect neighbourhoods that are further from the railway, such as Kauguri and Jaunķemeri. Useful, but most visitors won't need them.

By taxi: Bolt works in Jūrmala and is handy for getting to the Ķemeri bog boardwalk or back from a late dinner.

By car: Only worth it if you're also exploring further along the coast, such as the fishing villages towards Engure or Cape Kolka. Remember the daily entry fee.

Which part of Jūrmala should you visit?

Because Jūrmala is a chain of villages, picking the right station makes a big difference to your day. These are the areas worth knowing.

Best time to visit Jūrmala

The best time to visit Jūrmala for beach weather is June to August. For fewer crowds and lower prices, go in late May or early September. Each season has its own appeal.

• Summer (June-August): Jūrmala at its liveliest. Expect temperatures of around 20-25°C, long days (it barely gets dark around Midsummer), summer concerts and busy beaches. The sea is cool, around 16-20°C, so it's refreshing rather than warm. Hotel prices are at their highest, especially at weekends and around Jāņi (Midsummer, 23-24 June).
• Late spring and early autumn (May, September): My favourite time for Jūrmala. The town is calmer, hotels are cheaper, and the beaches and forest paths are still lovely for walking, even if it's too cold for most people to swim.
• Autumn (October-November): Golden pine forests, wild mushrooms and dramatic stormy seas. Some seasonal beach cafés close, but it's perfect for spa breaks and long walks.
• Winter (December-March): Quiet, cold and surprisingly atmospheric. When there's snow, there's cross-country skiing on a lit track in Dzintari Forest Park and along the beach, and sometimes a frozen shoreline. It's the cheapest time to book a spa hotel.

Things to do in Jūrmala

Most people come to Jūrmala for the beach, but there's far more here than sand. These are the best things to do, roughly from east to west.

1. Spend a day on Jūrmala beach

Jūrmala's beach is the reason the town exists: around 24 km of fine, pale sand backed by dunes and pine trees, with shallow water that's great for paddling. The stretch around Majori and Dzintari has the most facilities, including cafés, toilets, lifeguards, sun loungers and volleyball nets. Head west to Pumpuri, Melluži or beyond, or east to Bulduri and Lielupe, and you'll quickly find quieter sand. Several beaches have Blue Flag status for water quality and facilities.

2. Walk Jomas iela in Majori

Jomas iela is Jūrmala's main pedestrian street, a little over a kilometre long and lined with restaurants, terraces, cafés, souvenir shops and colourful wooden buildings. It's the social heart of the town, busy on summer evenings and much quieter out of season. Walk it end to end, then cut through to the beach via one of the side streets.

3. Admire the wooden architecture

Jūrmala has one of the largest collections of historic wooden architecture in the Baltics. There are hundreds of protected villas and summer houses, many with carved verandas, turrets and lace-like trim. The best streets for a self-guided walk are in Dzintari, Majori and Dubulti, a block or two back from the beach. Some villas are beautifully restored, while others are slowly crumbling, which is part of the charm. Pick up a wooden architecture map from the tourist information centre in Majori.

4. Walk the Great Ķemeri Bog Boardwalk

The Great Ķemeri Bog Boardwalk (Lielā Ķemeru tīreļa laipa) is one of the most photographed places in Latvia, and for good reason. A wooden boardwalk loops across an ancient raised bog in Ķemeri National Park, past dark bog pools, stunted pines and mossy hummocks. There are two loops: a short one of around 1.4 km and a longer one of around 3.4 km with an observation tower that looks out over the whole bog.

It's free to visit and beautiful in every season. Sunrise and sunset are especially magical, and winter frost turns it into something out of a fairy tale. It's a few kilometres from Ķemeri station, so most people drive, cycle or take a Bolt from the station.

5. Explore Ķemeri Resort Park and the water tower

Ķemeri was once one of the most famous spa resorts in the Russian Empire, built around sulphur springs and healing mud. The historic Ķemeri Resort Park has been restored, with footbridges, a rotunda on "Love Island", the little "Ķirzaciņa" sulphur spring and an Orthodox church. The highlight is the restored Ķemeri Water Tower, with viewing platforms at 12 m and 42 m and views across the pine forest and the old resort. Entry is free. It opens for the season in late spring, and you can book upper-platform visits in advance.

You'll also see the striking white Ķemeri Hotel (nicknamed the "White Ship"), a 1930s landmark that has been waiting for restoration for years. It isn't open to visitors, but it's impressive from the park.

6. Catch a concert at Dzintari Concert Hall

Concerts have been held at this spot since the 1890s. Today's Dzintari Concert Hall, set among the pines a short walk from the beach, is one of Latvia's most loved summer venues. Its summer season brings classical, jazz, pop and international performers. In the cooler months, the indoor hall hosts smaller concerts. Check the programme before your trip, as the big summer shows sell out.

7. Climb the tower in Dzintari Forest Park

Dzintari Forest Park is a pine forest right next to the beach, with walking paths, skating tracks, playgrounds and an observation tower over 30 metres tall that rises above the treetops. From the top, you can see the sea on one side and the forest stretching inland on the other. In winter, when there's snow, there's a lit cross-country ski track here.

8. Visit Jūrmala's museums and galleries

Jūrmala's museums are small, but many of them are free. They're a good option on a grey day.

• Jūrmala City Museum (Majori): The town's history from fishing villages to Soviet resort, plus regularly changing exhibitions.
• Rainis and Aspazija Summer House (Majori): The restored wooden summer home of Latvia's most famous literary couple, poet Rainis and writer Aspazija.
• House of Aspazija (Dubulti): The house where Aspazija spent her final years, with early 20th-century interiors.
• Jūrmala Open-Air Museum (Lielupe): 19th and early 20th-century fishermen's buildings, boats, nets and a smokehouse, showing how the coast lived before tourism arrived.
• Dubulti Art Station: A striking 1970s modernist station building shaped like a wave, now an art gallery in the former waiting hall.
• Bulduri Exhibition House: A small gallery in a 1920s wooden villa, two minutes from Bulduri station.

9. Watch the sunset from the Lielupe dunes and Ragakāpa

At the Lielupe end of town, Ragakāpa Nature Park protects one of the highest dunes on the coast, covered in pine trees over 200 years old. Nearby on the riverbank in Priedaine, the White Dune (Baltā kāpa) is a steep sandy bank above the Lielupe River and a popular sunset spot with locals.

10. Treat yourself to a spa day

Spa culture runs deep in Jūrmala, from 19th-century mud baths to today's hotel spas. Several hotels, including Hotel Jūrmala SPA and Baltic Beach Hotel, sell day passes to their pools and saunas, usually around €30-35 (£26-30) for a few hours. Book treatments ahead in summer and at weekends.

11. Spend a day at Līvu Aquapark

Travelling with kids, or just a big kid yourself? Līvu Aquapark in Lielupe is one of the largest indoor water parks in the Baltics, with slides, wave pools and saunas. It's a guaranteed win on a rainy day.

12. Join a summer festival or event

Summer is packed with events, from the Jūrmala City Festival and open-air concerts to beach volleyball tournaments and markets. Check visitjurmala.lv for dates before you go. Big weekends fill hotels quickly.

How many days do you need in Jūrmala?

One day is enough to see the highlights of Jūrmala on a day trip from Riga. Two or three days lets you slow down, add Ķemeri National Park and enjoy a spa or concert. Here's how I'd plan each.

One day in Jūrmala (day trip from Riga)

Two to three days in Jūrmala

• Day 1: Majori, Jomas iela, the beach, the Rainis and Aspazija Summer House and an evening concert at Dzintari.
• Day 2: Ķemeri National Park in the morning (bog boardwalk at sunrise if you're keen), Ķemeri Resort Park and the water tower, then a spa afternoon.
• Day 3: Rent a bike and cycle east through Bulduri to Lielupe for the Open-Air Museum, Ragakāpa dunes and a sunset at the White Dune.

Where to stay in Jūrmala

For a first visit, stay in or near Majori. You'll be close to the station, the beach, Jomas iela and most restaurants. For somewhere quieter, look at Dzintari or Bulduri. Lielupe suits families thanks to the water park. Book early for summer weekends, as prices rise sharply in July and August.

Hotels:

• Baltic Beach Hotel & SPA (Majori): A big beachfront hotel right on the sand, with one of Jūrmala's best-known spas. The classic choice for a sea view.
• Hotel Jūrmala SPA (Majori): A tall hotel at the start of Jomas iela, with a rooftop bar, a large spa complex and views over both the sea and the river.
• Amber Sea Hotel & SPA (Majori): A smaller spa hotel within easy walking distance of the beach and Jomas iela. Good for couples and a relaxing weekend.
• Lielupe by Semarah (Lielupe): A large resort hotel among the pines near the beach and Līvu Aquapark. Popular with families and for spa breaks.
• Guesthouses and apartments: Jūrmala has lots of apartments and rooms in historic wooden villas. Often they're the best value, especially for solo travellers and longer stays.

My personal recommendation

If it's your first time, base yourself within a 10-minute walk of Majori station. You can walk to the beach in the morning, head into Riga by train for the day if you want, and still be a few steps from dinner on Jomas iela at night. Solo travellers on a budget will usually get better value from an apartment in a wooden villa than from the big beachfront hotels.

Where to eat in Jūrmala

Jūrmala's food scene is concentrated around Majori and Jomas iela, with a few standout spots elsewhere along the coast. Prices on Jomas iela are higher than in Riga in peak season, so it's worth wandering a street or two away from the main strip.

Casual dining:

• Jomas iela terraces: In summer, the whole street turns into one long terrace, with pizza, grills, burgers and Latvian classics. Compare a few menus before you sit down, as prices vary a lot for very similar dishes.
• Beach cafés: Between Majori and Dzintari, you'll find seasonal beach cafés and bars serving coffee, snacks, drinks and simple meals right on the sand.

Cafés:

• Bakeries and coffee shops in Majori and Dubulti: Look for Latvian pastries like pīrāgi (bacon buns), cinnamon rolls and rye-bread desserts. They make an easy breakfast before the beach.

Upscale dining:

• 36.Line (Lielupe): Jūrmala's most famous restaurant, right on the beach with a glass-fronted terrace facing the sea. It has been recommended in the Michelin Guide Latvia three years running, most recently in 2026. Expect grilled fish and meat, sushi, tartare and modern takes on Latvian flavours. Don't skip the Black Balsam tiramisu. Book ahead, especially for a sunset table.

Traditional Latvian:

• Alus krodziņš (Jomas iela, Majori): A traditional beer tavern with hearty Latvian food and an outdoor fireplace that makes it cosy even in winter. Order grey peas with bacon, pork dishes and local beer.

For the cheapest and most local food, take the train back to Riga and eat at the Central Market. See my guide to Riga Central Market: what to eat and how to avoid tourist prices.

Where to shop in Jūrmala

Jūrmala isn't a big shopping destination, but there are a few good places to pick up souvenirs and supplies.

• Jomas iela: The main spot for souvenirs, including Baltic amber jewellery, Latvian linen, knitted mittens, wooden crafts and Riga Black Balsam. Buy amber from proper shops rather than random stalls, and ask for a certificate on more expensive pieces.
• Local markets: In summer, look out for pop-up craft and farmers' markets around Majori, with honey, smoked fish, berries and handmade goods.

Shopping centres:

• Korso shopping gallery: A small central shopping centre with shops and a StarCinema cinema, handy on a rainy evening.
• Supermarkets: Rimi and Maxima stores across Jūrmala are perfect for picnic supplies, cheap snacks and drinks for the beach.

How much does a trip to Jūrmala cost?

Jūrmala is affordable by Western European standards, but it's one of the more expensive places in Latvia, especially in July and August. These are typical prices for 2026.

A budget day trip from Riga, with train fares, a picnic or casual lunch, and coffee, can easily come in under €25 (£22). Prices drop noticeably outside June-August.

Practical tips for visiting Jūrmala

• Bring layers: Even in summer, the sea breeze can be cool, and the weather changes quickly.
• Mosquitoes: Forest and bog areas, especially Ķemeri, can be buzzing in summer. Pack insect repellent.
• Payments: Cards are accepted almost everywhere, but keep a little cash for small kiosks and markets.
• Language: Learn a couple of Latvian words. "Labdien" (good day) and "Paldies" (thank you) are always appreciated.
• Stay connected: An eSIM is the easiest way to get mobile data in Latvia. Use code TOMSOLOTRAVELS for £4 off with Saily.
• Check the last train: Trains back to Riga run until late evening, but check the Vivi timetable before you settle in for sunset.
• Swimming safety: Swim at beaches with lifeguards in summer, watch the flags, and don't swim after drinking.
• Respect the dunes: Stick to marked paths through the dunes, which are protected and easily damaged.

The future of Jūrmala: a resort town reinventing itself

Jūrmala is in the middle of a quiet comeback. Historic Ķemeri Resort Park has been restored, and its water tower has reopened as a free viewpoint. Many of the old wooden villas are being renovated one by one, while new hotels, restaurants and spas keep raising the bar. 36.Line's repeated Michelin recognition has put the town on the map for food lovers too.

The town is also trying to manage its own popularity. The entry fee rose to €5 in 2026 to cut traffic and fund the town's upkeep. That's another good reason to arrive the way locals always have: by train. Keep an eye on the Ķemeri Hotel. If the "White Ship" is ever fully restored, it will be one of the most beautiful buildings on the Baltic coast.

More than a beach to me

For many Latvians, Jūrmala isn't just a place on a map. It's childhood summers, the smell of pine trees in the heat, sand in everything and the train ride home with salty skin. It's where Latvia goes to slow down. Even now, after travelling solo across more than 20 countries, I think there's something special about how quickly you can swap a capital city for a wild Baltic beach here.

Whether you come for an afternoon on the sand or a week of spa days and forest walks, Jūrmala rewards anyone who takes the 30-minute train out of Riga. Come and see it for yourself. You won't regret it.

Frequently asked questions about Jūrmala

Written by Tom Lejava, Latvian-born solo traveller and founder of Tom Solo Travels. Facts and prices checked November 2026 - always check visitjurmala.lv and vivi.lv for the latest information before you travel. Some links in this guide are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.