Is Livraria Lello Worth It? A Guide to Porto’s Most Famous Bookstore

Livraria Lello isn’t just a bookstore. It’s a living museum, a symbol of Portuguese craftsmanship, and one of the most photographed landmarks in Porto. Nestled on Rua das Carmelitas in the heart of the city, this neo-Gothic gem has earned international recognition for its striking architecture, stained-glass skylight, and spiral staircase that seems to float in mid-air.

But in recent years, the bookstore has implemented a mandatory entry fee, leading many travellers to wonder – is Livraria Lello still worth visiting? In this guide, I’ll break down what to expect when visiting, how much it costs, what you get for your money, and whether or not it deserves a spot on your Porto itinerary.

The History Behind the Hype

Founded in 1906 by brothers José and António Lello, the bookstore was designed by engineer Francisco Xavier Esteves and has stood the test of time for over a century. Its reputation has only grown with the rise of social media and travel blogging, often earning titles like “the most beautiful bookstore in the world” from publications such as The Guardian and Lonely Planet.

Despite popular myths, it is now confirmed that J.K. Rowling did not base Hogwarts or any Harry Potter setting on Livraria Lello – though it certainly feels like it could have. Rowling lived in Porto during the early 1990s, and while she may have walked past it, there’s no direct connection. Still, the illusion is powerful, and the bookstore’s magical aesthetic speaks for itself.

What Makes Livraria Lello So Special?

The moment you step through the entrance, you’re transported to another era. The intricate wood carvings, the crimson staircase that splits and twists toward the mezzanine, and the large stained-glass ceiling that reads “Decus in Labore” (Honour in Work) all contribute to the bookstore’s otherworldly charm.

Every inch of the interior has been carefully maintained to preserve its historic feel, while blending modern functionality. Books line the walls on the ground floor and balcony, offering selections in multiple languages, including Portuguese, English, French, and Spanish. The layout encourages slow wandering – a rare experience in today’s fast-paced world.

For book lovers, architecture enthusiasts, or anyone with an appreciation for design, Livraria Lello is not just a place to see – it’s a place to feel. I’m not a huge book lover myself, however stepping inside Livraria Lello felt magical.

How Much Does It Cost to Visit Livraria Lello?

As of 2025, general admission (Silver Ticket) to Livraria Lello costs €10 (approx. £8.70) per person. This fee is redeemable against a selected book purchase made during your visit. In other words, if you decide to buy a book from their curated collection, your ticket acts as a voucher, effectively making the entrance free if you make a purchase.

There are also premium ticket options that include collector’s editions or priority access, but for most travellers, the standard €10 ticket is more than enough. Children under the age of 3 can usually enter for free, but it’s always best to check the official website for the latest information, especially during peak seasons or special events.

I got the Gold ticket which cost €15.95 (approx. £13.80) which included one book from the Livraria Lello Edition – The Collection or The Pop Collection as well as admission to Livraria Lello via the Gold entry line which was a lot smaller than the standard Silver line. I also picked up one of their books which originally cost €16.95, however with the voucher I got it for only €2.30 which in my opinion is an absolute steal!

The bookstore introduced this paid entry system as a way to manage the overwhelming number of daily visitors and to help maintain the building’s preservation. While it may feel steep for a brief visit, it does help ensure a more controlled and enjoyable experience inside. However, it is still packed to the brim inside.

What to Expect When You Visit

Visiting Livraria Lello can be a magical experience – if you plan it right. Due to its popularity, queues often start forming before the doors open. Mornings right after opening or late afternoons tend to be less busy, although the shop rarely has truly quiet hours anymore. I went there during the day (around midday) and would not recommend this as it is super busy both inside and outside the bookshop

Once inside, you’re free to roam the ground floor and upper level. Photography is allowed, but be mindful of others trying to get their own perfect shot. The spiral staircase tends to be the busiest photo spot, so some patience will be required. The lighting is soft and warm, enhancing the richness of the woodwork and the intimate atmosphere.

While there are no guided tours, the staff are friendly and knowledgeable. They’re happy to assist with book recommendations or explain the history behind certain elements of the shop’s design.

I spent roughly 45mins inside and I’m not a bookshop kind of guy, however, most visitors spend between 30 and 45 minutes inside. If you’re a book lover or design enthusiast, you could easily spend longer soaking in the details and all of the books that they have to offer.

Tips to Make the Most of Your Visit

If you’re planning to visit Livraria Lello, consider purchasing your ticket online in advance to skip the longer queues or doing as I did, which was going the Livraria Lello, scanning the QR code that they have on display and purchasing the ticket there and then. Arriving early (ideally right at opening time) or visiting near closing can help you avoid the biggest crowds as well.

While many people rush in for a few photos, try to slow down and explore the lesser-known corners. The upstairs balcony gives you a wider view of the entire store, and it’s also where many of the English-language books are located.

And don’t forget – your entry ticket acts as credit, so take the time to choose a book to bring home. Even if it’s a pocket-sized classic or a travel memoir, it’s a meaningful souvenir to remember your visit.

Is Livraria Lello Worth It?

In short, absolutely! – Livraria Lello is absolutely worth a visit, especially if you appreciate history, architecture, and culture. The €10 or €16 ticket may initially seem expensive for a bookstore, but when you consider the experience, the redeemable voucher, and the chance to visit one of the world’s most beautiful literary landmarks, it offers great value.

That said, it’s not for everyone. If you’re short on time, dislike crowds, or aren’t particularly interested in books or design, it may feel underwhelming. But for the majority of visitors, Livraria Lello remains one of Porto’s standout attractions for a reason.

How to Get There

Livraria Lello is centrally located at Rua das Carmelitas 144, just a short walk from Clérigos Tower and São Bento Station. I walked from Sao Bento Station to the Livraria Lello and it only took me approx. 10-15mins. It’s also well-connected by metro and bus routes, and there are plenty of cafes and restaurants nearby if you want to continue exploring after your visit.

If you’re exploring Porto on foot, it’s easy to include Livraria Lello in a walking tour of the historic centre.

Final Thoughts

Livraria Lello offers more than just a quick Instagram moment. It’s a testament to Porto’s rich literary and artistic history – and a beautiful example of how historic spaces can be kept alive for future generations. If you’re visiting Porto, make time to experience it for yourself.

Whether you leave with a book or just a memory, it’s a place that will likely stay with you long after you leave.