The Complete Guide to Liepāja

Liepaja. The name might not instantly conjure images the way “Paris” or “Rome” do, but for me, it’s the sound of home. It’s the salty tang of the sea air, the creak of wooden houses, the melody of Latvian folk songs – I mean it is called “The City where wind is born” after all! Being born in this charming seaside town on Latvia’s western coast and only living here for the first five/six years of my life, I’ve returned every single year since as it’s more than just a place I visit; it’s the place that I spent my childhood in, its where I made my first friends and it’s a place that has evolved so much over the last two decades.

Liepaja isn’t a sprawling metropolis. It’s a small, intimate city where you can truly feel the pulse of life. It’s the kind of place where you can walk almost everywhere, where the locals greet you with a smile, and where you can escape the well-trodden tourist paths. I’ve watched Liepaja grow and change over the years, but its core essence – its blend of Baltic beauty, historical intrigue, and a vibrant, evolving culture – remains. This isn’t a generic travel guide filled with copied-and-pasted information; it’s a personal invitation to experience my Liepaja, a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. I want to share the secrets, the hidden corners, and the local favourites that make this city so special to me.

How to Get to Liepaja

Getting to Liepaja requires a bit more planning than jetting off to a major European capital, but believe me, the journey is part of the adventure! I’ve done it countless times, so I can offer some insider tips:

By Bus from Riga: This is my usual go-to, and it’s the most budget-friendly option. Buses leave regularly from Riga International Bus Station (Rīgas Starptautiskā autoosta), and the journey takes around 3.5 hours. I usually grab a window seat and watch the Latvian countryside roll by – fields of wildflowers, dense forests, and charming little villages. Tickets are usually around 15 euros, but it’s always a good idea to check online beforehand, especially during peak season. Websites like Bezrindas.lv or 1188.lv are your best bet (they usually have English versions). The bus station in Liepaja is pretty central, so you can easily walk to many hotels or apartments from there. You will also have to take a Taxi from Riga Airport to the Riga International Bus Station which is usually around 10-15 euros as well.

By Car from Riga Airport: If you’re planning on exploring more of the Kurzeme region (which I highly recommend!), renting a car at Riga International Airport (RIX) is the way to go. The drive to Liepaja is about 230 kilometers and takes around 2.5 to 3 hours, mostly along the A9 highway. It’s a pretty straightforward drive, and the roads are generally in good condition. Just remember to factor in the cost of fuel. Having a car gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace, visit nearby towns, and discover hidden beaches. If you’re taking the car, some other nearby smalls towns I would also recommend are: Jurmala, Saldus and Skrunda

By Car/Taxi from Palanga Airport (Lithuania): This is a bit of a sneaky shortcut! Palanga International Airport (PLQ) in Lithuania is actually closer to Liepaja than Riga Airport – only about a 30-minute drive. However, and this is a big “however,” there are no regular buses or trains connecting Palanga Airport to Liepaja – This is the main reason why I don’t just go into Palanga every time. You absolutely must pre-arrange a private transfer or a taxi. I’ve done this a few times when I found a particularly good flight deal to Palanga. It can be more expensive, but it saves you a lot of travel time. I recommend contacting local Liepāja taxi companies or transfer services well in advance to get quotes and book your ride. Don’t rely on finding a taxi on arrival!

By Train from Riga: There is a train service a few times a week that you are able to get. I’ve only been on it once or twice as it does require you to wake up very early as the train departs from Riga at around 6:30 in the morning. The journey, like the bus, is also around 3 hours long.

Pro Tip: Always double-check travel times and availability, especially during the summer or around Latvian holidays. Things can book up quickly!

How to Get Around Liepaja

Once you’re in Liepaja, getting around is relatively easy. Here are the main options:

On Foot: This is my favourite way to explore Liepāja’s city center. It’s a compact city, and many of the main attractions, restaurants, and shops are within walking distance of each other. Strolling along the streets allows you to soak up the atmosphere, discover hidden courtyards, and appreciate the architecture. Just wear comfortable shoes!

By Bicycle: Liepāja is a very bike-friendly city, with dedicated bike lanes and paths in many areas. You can rent bikes from various locations, including some hotels and tourist information centers. Cycling is a great way to explore the Seaside Park, reach the beach, or even venture a bit further out to Karosta.

By Tram: Liepaja has a tram line which is very cheap to use. It goes across all of Liepaja. The Tram line runs from one end of the city to another.

By Bus: Liepaja has a local bus network that covers most of the city and surrounding areas. It’s a convenient and affordable option for getting to places that are further away, like the Rietumu Centrs shopping center or some of the more distant beaches. You can buy tickets from the bus driver (usually with cash) or at kiosks.

By Taxi: Taxis are readily available in Liepāja, and they’re a relatively inexpensive way to get around, especially if you’re traveling with a group. You can hail taxis on the street, find them at taxi stands (usually near the bus station and major hotels), or call a taxi company. Bolt (a ride-hailing app similar to Uber) also operates in Liepāja, which can be a convenient option.

By Car: If you’ve rented a car, you can certainly use it to get around Liepāja. However, parking in the city center can sometimes be limited, especially during peak season.

Best Time to Visit Liepaja

Choosing the right time to visit Liepaja can completely transform your experience. Here’s my take on the different seasons:

• Summer (June-August): This is when Liepaja truly comes alive. The weather is warm and sunny (usually!), perfect for lazy days on the beach and exploring the city. The days are incredibly long – it barely gets dark around the Midsummer festival (more on that later!). The downside is that it’s peak tourist season, so expect higher prices for accommodation and flights, and more people around. But the energy is infectious, and there are always events and festivals happening.
• Spring (April-May) & Early Autumn (September): These “shoulder seasons” are my personal favourites. The weather is generally pleasant, there are far fewer crowds, and prices are lower than in the summer. You might catch the beautiful spring blossoms or the vibrant autumn colours, adding an extra layer of charm to the city. It’s a great time for walking, cycling, and exploring without feeling rushed.
• Winter (November-March): Liepaja in winter is a completely different experience, but equally magical. The city is transformed into a winter wonderland, with beautiful decorations and twinkling lights everywhere. Imagine walking along a snowy beach, the sound of the waves muffled by the snow – it’s incredibly peaceful. While some outdoor activities are limited, it’s the perfect time to cozy up in cafes, visit museums, and enjoy the festive atmosphere. Liepaja truly takes it to the next level with Christmas lights and decorations.

Things to Do in Liepaja

Liepaja offers a surprisingly diverse range of activities. I have many favourites, so, here are just a few that you must see:

The Beach: This is non-negotiable. Liepaja’s beach is, in my humble opinion, one of the best in Europe – Yes I actually said that. It’s wide, sandy, and the water is surprisingly clear. I’ve spent countless hours there, swimming, sunbathing, building sandcastles (even as an adult!), and just walking along the shore. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing and kitesurfing, thanks to Liepaja’s reputation as the “wind capital” of Latvia.

Summer Sound Festival: If you’re a music fan, try to time your visit with the annual Summer Sound festival, usually held in early August. It’s a huge event, attracting both Latvian and international artists, and the atmosphere is electric.

Jāņi (Midsummer Festival): This is a must-experience if you’re in Latvia in late June (June 23rd and 24th). Jāņi is the Latvian Midsummer celebration, and it’s a truly unique cultural experience. Expect bonfires, traditional singing and dancing, delicious food, and a general feeling of revelry that lasts all night long. Liepaja, like the rest of Latvia, goes all out for Jāņi.

Karosta Prison: Prepare to be spooked! Karosta Prison is a former military prison with a truly chilling history. I’ve taken the guided tour a few times, and it’s always fascinating (and a little bit unsettling). You learn about the prison’s grim past, see the cells, and hear stories of the prisoners who were held there. For the truly adventurous, you can even book an overnight stay – I haven’t been brave enough to do that yet!

Northern Forts: These are a must-see, especially if you’re interested in history or photography. The Northern Forts are a series of crumbling fortifications built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. They’re partially submerged in the sea, creating a dramatic and somewhat eerie landscape. I love exploring the ruins and imagining what life must have been like there. The Northern Forts are also close to the Karosta Prison

Great Amber Concert Hall (Lielais Dzintars): Even if you don’t attend a concert, this building is worth seeing. It’s a stunning piece of modern architecture, with a distinctive, amber-coloured facade. It’s become a symbol of Liepaja’s cultural scene. I always try to check the concert schedule when I’m in town – they host everything from classical music to jazz to contemporary performances. This is also a relatively new addition to Liepaja, having opened its doors in November 2015

Liepaja Museum: If you want to delve deeper into the city’s history and culture, the Liepaja Museum is a great place to start. It has exhibits on local history, art, and maritime heritage. I always learn something new when I visit.

Stroll through the Seaside Park (Jūrmalas Parks): This beautiful park stretches along the coast and is perfect for a leisurely walk or bike ride. There are playgrounds for kids, cafes where you can grab a coffee or ice cream, and plenty of benches where you can sit and enjoy the sea views. It’s a great place to relax and soak up the atmosphere.

Holy Trinity Cathedral: The Holy Trinity Cathedral with its impressive organ is a must-see architectural masterpiece. I love to just go inside and admire it.

Where to Stay in Liepaja

I’ve stayed in a variety of places in Liepaja over the years, and there are options for every budget and preference:

Hotels:

• Liva Hotel: This is a classic, centrally located hotel with a long history. It’s a good option if you want to be in the heart of the action. This is also a very Budget friendly option.

• Promenade Hotel: Situated right on the Trade Canal, this hotel offers stylish rooms and beautiful views. It’s a bit more upscale.

• Libava Hotel: A smaller, boutique hotel near the city center, offering a more intimate atmosphere.

• Amrita Hotel: A comfortable and modern hotel, a good choice for a reliable stay.

• Vilhelmine Hotel: A charming hotel in a historic building, adding a touch of character to your stay.

• Airbnb: This is my personal preference. Renting an apartment through booking.com or Airbnb gives you more space and flexibility, and it often feels more like living like a local. You can find apartments in all sorts of locations, from the bustling city center to quieter residential areas.

My Personal Recommendation

I have to give a shout-out to Liepaja Apartments Downtown. I’ve stayed here several times (whenever it is available), and it’s become my go-to place whenever I am in Liepaja. It’s right next to Pētertirgus (Peter’s Market), which is incredibly convenient for grocery shopping and exploring the city center. It’s cozy, well-equipped, and feels like a home away from home.

Where to Eat in Liepaja

Liepaja’s food scene is a delightful mix of traditional Latvian Flavors and international influences. I have my go-to spots that I always visit:

Casual Dining:

• Čili Pica: This is a popular chain restaurant across Latvia, and it’s a reliable choice for pizza, pasta, and other dishes. It’s not fancy, but it’s always tasty and good value.
• Doka Pica: This is more of a local favourite, with a cozy atmosphere, delicious, wood-fired pizzas and all the Latvian cuisines that you could ever want. I love the intimate vibe here and it is relatively cheap compared to other places.

Cafes:

• Kafejnīca Darbnīca: This cafe is right in the middle of town, and it’s a great spot for a coffee, a light meal, or just to watch the world go by.
• Teika: This is a newer cafe/bar with a trendy, modern aesthetic. They have great coffee, delicious snacks, and a good selection of drinks. It’s also a great place to hang out in the evening.

Upscale Dining:

• Olive: If you’re looking for something a bit more special, Olive is a great choice. It’s a more upscale restaurant with a refined menu and a sophisticated ambiance. It’s perfect for a romantic dinner or a special occasion.

Traditional Latvian:

• Vecais Kapteinis: If you want to try the most authentic and best Latvian Cuisine then this place is for you.

Don’t be afraid to wander around and explore! There are so many small, charming cafes and restaurants tucked away in Liepaja’s streets. You’ll find everything from traditional Latvian dishes to international cuisine. I always try to discover a new place each time I visit.

Where to Shop

To really experience Liepaja like a local, you have to explore its markets and shopping centers:

• Liepaja’s Pētertirgus (Peter’s Market): This is an absolute must! It’s the largest market in Liepaja and the second-largest in Latvia, and it’s a feast for the senses. Outside, you’ll find stalls overflowing with fresh, seasonal produce – berries in the summer, mushrooms in the autumn, and all sorts of fruits and vegetables year-round. Inside, there’s a huge hall filled with vendors selling meat, fish, cheese, honey, baked goods, and local crafts. I always stock up on Latvian honey and smoked meats when I’m there. It’s a great place to soak up the local atmosphere and find some unique souvenirs as well.

Shopping Centers:

• Kurzeme: This is a pretty standard shopping center with a mix of clothing stores, electronics shops, and a supermarket. It’s a good place to go if you need to pick up any essentials. In the basement area of the shopping centre, you will also find Maxima which is a local grocery store
• Ostmala: Located near the harbor, this shopping center has a nice mix of shops and restaurants, and it’s a pleasant place to stroll around.
• Rietumu Centrs: This is a larger shopping center on the outskirts of the city, with a wider selection of stores. It’s a bit further out, but it’s a good option if you’re looking for something specific.
• XL Sala: Another big shopping center with lots to offer and is a bit on the outskirts of the city

The Future of Liepaja: European Capital of Culture 2027

Liepaja is on the cusp of something big! In 2027, my hometown will be a European Capital of Culture, alongside the city of Daugavpils. This is a huge honour and a fantastic opportunity to showcase Liepaja’s unique culture, creativity, and spirit to the world.

The theme for Liepaja 2027 is “(un)rest,” a concept that perfectly captures the city’s dynamic energy, its history of resilience, and its constant striving for progress. The program will be built around four main lines:

• European Dream: Exploring Liepaja’s connection to Europe and its role in the broader European narrative.
• New Eyes: Encouraging new perspectives and challenging traditional ways of thinking.
• Port City Paradox: Embracing the contradictions and complexities of a city shaped by its port and its maritime heritage.
• Creative Foresight: Looking towards the future and fostering innovation and creativity.

I’m incredibly excited to see what Liepaja 2027 will bring. I expect a vibrant year filled with art installations, performances, exhibitions, festivals, and community projects that will transform the city and engage both locals and visitors. It’s a chance for Liepaja to shine on the international stage and to further develop its cultural infrastructure and creative industries. You can learn more about the program and the vision for Liepaja 2027 on the official website: https://liepaja2027.lv/en/. If you’re planning a trip to Latvia, definitely consider visiting in 2027 – it’s going to be an unforgettable experience!

More than a city to me

Liepaja is more than just a dot on the map; it’s a place that holds a piece of my heart. It’s a city of contrasts – where the wildness of the Baltic Sea meets the tranquility of a charming town, where ancient history blends seamlessly with modern culture. It’s a place that invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and appreciate the simple things in life.

I hope this guide, filled with my personal experiences and recommendations, inspires you to discover the magic of my Liepaja. It’s a place that might surprise you, a place that might challenge you, but most of all, it’s a place that will welcome you with open arms and leave you with memories to last a lifetime. Come and explore Liepaja – you won’t regret it.